Eating Well in Austin, Texas
In only a few days I couldn’t sample everything that
Austin has to offer so had to whittle down my wishlist to spots without significant waiting times - if you’ve come for pics and rhapsodic
prose on Franklin’s I apologise but hopefully still won't disappoint.
For a successful food trip, you should choose where to stay wisely. I highly recommend the area around East 6th, where I rented a loft via VRBO.
You’ll be walking distance (clearly anathema to most Americans and I can kind
of understand when it’s so damn hot) from most of the places I list here. The area also has a great relaxed vibe with loads of bars and live music, but you're also a quick cab ride from downtown or the gorgeous Barton Springs when you need to cool off.
Las Trancas for tacos |
Barbecue
Let’s start with Barbecue. It’s what this part of
Texas is known for. I saw an Instagram pic of the juicy ribs at Franklins
and the pit at Salt Lick and knew that one day I would come to Austin. I have to admit though that in baking 37-degree heat (Celsius, or a whisper away from 100F),
a huge mound of meat loses its appeal. Sorry but it’s true. Anyway, I persevered and was able to check out a couple of great spots.
John Mueller Meat Co
An Instagram friend raved about John Mueller, so it was high
on my eat list. We arrived shortly after opening to no queue and were not disappointed. A
huge slab of beef ribs appeared, and one was carved off for us. A hunk of brisket to
sample convinced us to order a few slices too.
John Mueller: best beef ribs in town |
La Barbecue
Timing is everything. We arrived at John Mueller shortly
after opening and didn’t queue at all. After that early feast, we didn’t manage
to get to La Barbecue until around 1pm. An hour and three quarters later we got
to the front of the queue
to find that they had sold out of ribs, sausages and some sides leaving just
chopped brisket and pulled pork. At least it made the choice easy.
Eager BBQ fans at La Barbecue |
La Barbecue: pulled pork, chopped brisket |
Salt Lick is probably the most famous BBQ in the area. It’s
been featured on countless TV shows (Man V Food) and the pit, cunningly
positioned in full view as you enter, is worth the 30 min drive from Austin.
But…but…I didn’t love the food. The style is different to the other BBQ I
tried. Salt Lick is a saucier affair and the meat is basted with
a slightly-too-sweet-for-me concoction.
The Salt Lick: Thurman's Choice with brisket, pork ribs, sausage, potato salad, cole slaw and beans |
The Salt Lick: disappointing double cut beef rib |
Restaurants
You could eat very merrily with just street food in Austin
(the BBQ joints were all trailers, and tacos are easy to score on the street), but sometimes it’s nice to just sit down, kick back and be
served. I was knocked out by the quality of the spots I list below, which comfortably hold their own against anywhere internationally.
Gardner
This was my last meal in Austin and one of the best bang for
the buck deals in town. On a Monday night, Gardner has a great value four course set
menu at $28 (there’s a couple of supplements which can bump the price up a bit
more, but let’s not quibble over a few bucks).
Gardner: one of my favourite spot in Austin |
It’s a well judged and sized menu with interesting preparations and terrific presentation. I enjoyed Gardner a lot.
The chef at Qui is a bit of a celeb, with appearances on the US show Top
Chef. Having not seen the US version of
this show, the only credential I cared about was if he could cook. And cook he
can, although I only tried (most of) the patio menu (Pulutan), not the tasting menu
available inside the restaurant.
I couldn’t fault the dishes we had. From the tacos to the
“ceviche”, to tender pork skewers, the squid adobo and the peanut curry (kare kare) with Filipino influences, I
enjoyed it all. I'm guessing Qui is quite unique in Austin, with its take on Asian flavours but with a local slant.
Qui: cheddar cheese ice cream sandwich |
Qui: cut through of the cheddar cheese ice cream sandwich |
Dai Due
Dai Due is my kind of place, and is very Austin. It
champions local produce, even down to the wines (for better or worse), and is a
nose to tail kind of spot. They bring in their own animals, breaking them down
for sale in the butcher shop/deli at the front of the venue, and serving them
in the restaurant too. A lot of the meat is cooked over wood on grills like you'll find at Asador Etxebarri near Bilbao. The passion for quality is obvious.
Dai Due: fried chicken supper club |
The chicken was super crispy and juicy, without any trace of
greasiness. It’s cooked in a mix of tallow and lard – byproducts of the
carcasses I referred to above. The chicken is definitely finger lickin' but I would have liked it more with a more seasoned coating. At Root & Bone in NYC,
which is my gold-standard when it comes to fried chicken, you'll find a little lemon zest added which brings the dish to life.
Dai Due: pie |
For me, the downside of the hyper-local focus is the lack of
variety on the wine list. Dai Due has no licence to sell spirits either, so
don’t plan on cocktails. There’s an extensive beer menu though, which seems a
more apt accompaniment to the fried chicken anyway.
TACOS
Las Trancas
Given its reputation for great Mexican food, I really didn’t eat enough tacos in Austin. However, I loved the ones I did get to eat.
Given its reputation for great Mexican food, I really didn’t eat enough tacos in Austin. However, I loved the ones I did get to eat.
Las Trancas food truck |
Bomb Tacos at The White Horse
Bomb Tacos is also a must-visit because it reflects the microcosm
that is Austin. Bomb is located at the back of The White Horse, past the crowds of folks two stepping to live music and the blokes jamming with an accordion and playing the spoons
in the small patio area. You could interpret this as either peak hipster or an everyday
Austin occurrence (I went with the latter).
Bomb Taco: fish taco and breakfast taco |
Tamale House East
Breakfast tacos are a big deal in Austin, especially if
you’ve hit the town the night before, and Tamale Houst East is a bit of an institution. Walk in, order your taco, grab a number but before taking a seat swing by the condiments fridge and pick up the green sauce. It'll really give your morning tastebuds a kick.
Breakfast tacos at Tamale House East |
JUST FOR FUN
1886 Cafe & Bakery
If you’ve never visited Texas, then something kitsch like a
Texas-shaped waffle has got to be good. I saw this on the instagram feed of the
chef Bo Bech, who is the man behind Geist in Copenhagen (by the way, you can see my list of top Copenhagen tips here). The pecan maple waffles at 1886 were not too sweet, and the addition of fruit takes the edge off the maple. 1886 is in the lobby of the very classic Driskill hotel and is worth a visit.
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