Now I'm generally a little wary of the set menu at places like Koffmann's. The menu tends to be a simpler take on a chef's food, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. I've not eaten at Marcus Wareing at The Berkely, for example, but I don't think I'd order his set lunch menu and then regretfully wonder if I were missing out on some of the flashier food combinations of the tasting menu. My point is that Chef Koffmann isn't really about flashy food combinations, but about honest, well constructed, hearty, French brasserie food. For that reason, I thought I'd give the Bookatable offer a go.
|Chicken Liver Terrine|
|Duck with Marco Polo sauce|
If there was a low point to the meal, it was one of the sommeliers who tried to up-sell us on the wine list. Since we were planning to dine on the relatively cheap side, we thought we'd go for an inexpensive bottle of wine, but the sommelier pointed straight to the Burgundy and Bordeaux section of the vast wine list. Actually, there was relatively little under £40 on the list, but we ordered a £32 bottle of Marcillac despite some discouraging words from the sommelier who described the wine as 'interesting'. Well, it did have an interesting palate, but actually it went pretty well with the rich beef pie.
I have to give credit to the chef, who was in the beautifully lit kitchen. It's always encouraging seeing the man who's name is above the door actually co-ordinating an evening's service. You just know that he cares about the food that bears his name.